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Food | The Guardian

Latest Food news, comment and analysis from the Guardian, the world's leading liberal voice

Rachel Roddy's recipe for creme caramel

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 12:00:08 GMT

A proper creme caramel should be ‘like sinking into a comfortable chair’

While the creme caramel at Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto may be the best in Rome (so good that an Arab princess once offered to fly Leonardo, the owner, to her palace to teach her chef how to make it, but he couldn’t go), the one I enjoy most is at our local pizzeria, Remo. It’s not so much about the creme caramel itself (which might be packet mix), but more about the whys and wherefores. It’s most likely Friday night and the end of a long week, we don’t have to cook, the noise of the place feels celebratory and the seats are so tight that kids can’t wriggle around. We’ve already eaten fried salt cod and rice supplì with mozzarella hearts, a pizza each with a side order of puntarelle (bitter leaf salad with a rowdy, anchovy-and-garlic dressing), drunk at least a litre of red wine and now find ourselves in need of pudding.

While some people don’t like to share puddings, or scorn those who have just a spoonful, I appreciate both – you get to taste a bit of everything, or satisfy that need for a full stop of sweetness. The options at Remo are half a dozen: fruit (pineapple frills in winter, watermelon fans in summer), tubs of ice-cream, jam tarts or three things that wobble: crema catalana, panna cotta and creme caramel. All three are slightly grainy, slightly too firm and, to be honest, only slightly good. They are never inverted in the middle of the plate, but sometimes they are exactly what you need.

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Thomasina Miers' recipe for Sichuan-fried tofu noodle soup | The Simple Fix

Mon, 25 Mar 2019 12:00:14 GMT

Plug that hungry gap by raiding the store-cupboard for this fried tofu noodle soup

March is a tough month for food-lovers. Blood oranges are finishing their season and rhubarb is no longer the neon pink we so enjoy. Aside from wild garlic, the seasonal calendar will make us wait a little longer before the wave of lovely spring and summer fruits and vegetables arrive. To the store-cupboard we go then, raiding any savoury sauce or spice that puts oomph on to our plates.

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How to turn stale crisps into tortilla | Waste Not

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 06:00:09 GMT

Use stale crisps like breadcrumbs, or put them in a tortilla, just as Spanish superchef Ferran Adrià does

Before I began writing this column, there were several waste ingredients, odds and ends, that I’d have put in the compost bin. But I’ve since discovered that coffee grinds are delicious in brownies, beer dregs create the best batter and that aquafaba arguably makes better mayonnaise than eggs. I always thought that stale crisps were goners, too, but oh how wrong I was: with a little culinary alchemy, even they can be turned into something delectable. Pop them in an oven for five or so minutes at 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4/350F/ until their crunch returns, then crush into tiny pieces and use like breadcrumbs – on top of a macaroni cheese, say. Or take a tip from chef Ferran Adrià, godfather of modern fine dining, and use them in a tortilla, cutting the workload in half while producing the most perfect dish.

Related: A salad made from ‘waste’ spring onion tops | Waste Not

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Not ready for Marmite peanut butter? Taste-testing five other spread combos

Mon, 25 Mar 2019 17:53:09 GMT

The yeast-extract brand has launched a variety blended with nuts, provoking strong reactions on social media. But there are plenty of other unfamiliar combinations to try

Marmite began taunting the public with a new product last week: Marmite peanut butter. Twitter responded in typically sanguine fashion – with the vomit emoji, a gif of Johnny Depp dry heaving, and “NO” repeated several times. Marmite’s brand manager, Camilla Williamson, called the flavour “the most exciting product launch since the conception of the brand in 1902”. Apparently, Marmite has taken the lead from punters who have been mixing these spreads on toast for ages. It assures the country that we will love it. But peanut butter and Marmite sounds like trouble, particularly when Britons tend to enjoy simpler breakfast spread combinations (butter with Marmite, butter with jam). Of course, there are plenty of alternatives, so I tried a few.

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My carnivore diet: what I learned from eating only beef, salt and water

Tue, 11 Sep 2018 04:00:07 GMT

Jordan Peterson insists his fad diet helps you lose weight and feel better. I tried it for a week, and let me tell you: it was truly, punishingly awful

When I started my carnivore diet, I had no idea what it would involve. I thought it could be fun. I wasn’t to know I’d started on a journey that would involve rapid weight loss, complete exhaustion, and a professor of nutrition telling me I was at risk of scurvy.

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Angelina: ‘Curious and thoughtful’ – restaurant review

Sun, 24 Mar 2019 05:59:32 GMT

A marriage of Italian and Japanese cuisine could so easily be a disaster, but here it is a happy union

Angelina, 56 Dalston Lane, London E8 3AH (020 7241 1851). Five-course set menu £38; daily plate £9; wines from £24

When I first heard about Angelina, I suffered acute flashbacks. All of a sudden it was November 2003, and I was back in a sun-drenched white box of a room in London’s St James’s, feeling unkempt and nowhere near cool enough for the walls. A waiter was offering to explain the concept behind the menu. I was trying not to flinch. London’s nasty, brutish critics pointed and laughed at the place and I pointed and laughed with them. After it closed, one of the owners, Jamie Barber, gave a spirited defence: “Some people say Shumi wasn’t a successful restaurant, but I disagree. I say it was an unmitigated disaster. I think we got everything right except for the design, the service, the menu, the pricing and the execution. It was an extremely difficult period.”

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Cocktail of the week: Clifford’s Turkish delight | The Good Mixer

Fri, 22 Mar 2019 16:00:08 GMT

Like a pink lady, but with added floral notes reminiscent of Turkish delight

I love Turkish delight, and often make it at the restaurant. I’ve tried to mimic those flavours here, while refining it slightly to make a more delicate and elegant drink.

Serves 1
Juice of ½ lemon, plus 1 slice lemon, to run around the rim of the glass
Icing sugar, to garnish
1 white sugar cube
50ml gin – one that’s light on the botanicals: we use Martin Miller’s
1 egg white
1 drop rose water
1-2 drops grenadine, to taste

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Drink: move over, Guinness. Mine's a gin this St Patrick’s Day | Fiona Beckett

Fri, 15 Mar 2019 14:00:12 GMT

With a Co Kerry bottle taking first prize for the world’s best gin, maybe it’s time to ring the changes this St Patrick’s Day

I may be showing my age (OK, I am), but I get increasingly irritated by the way the year’s minor milestones have become occasions for massive media hype. St Patrick’s Day was once a good day simply to spend in a Dublin pub, Bastille Day a charming midsummer’s day off for the French, Hallowe’en for carving pumpkins and kids (for kids, not for carving kids). But you get swept up in it, don’t you, to the extent of finding yourself mildly regretful that Aldi sells its shamrock-infused gin only in the Republic, not least because it’s just the kind of steadying drink you need to hand for watching the Wales v Ireland game tomorrow.

Anyway, I’m sure most of you aren’t nearly as grumpy as me and are gagging to celebrate St Paddy’s Day this weekend, but may I suggest ringing the changes slightly and switching from Guinness to gin? That’s not as inappropriate as you might think – gin is booming on both sides of the border, and a couple of weeks ago, an Irish gin, Dingle, from Co Kerry, was named the world’s best at the World Gin Awards. Leaving aside whether you can actually have a “best” gin – surely it depends on your taste? – I must confess that Dingle is very, very good, a proper London gin (it was also the winner in that category), with the addition of less-usual botanicals such as rowanberry, bog myrtle, hawthorn and fuchsia. It also goes well – praise be – with a standard Indian tonic water, so you don’t have to stress about what to serve with it.

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Good wines from European co-operatives

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 06:00:04 GMT

At their best the co-ops combine great value and utopian communitarianism to winning effect

Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage, France 2016 (£12.79, Waitrose) There’s a tendency to divide wine producers into opposing camps. There’s the big boys with their vast factory-like facilities and marketing budgets. Then there’s the small producers, the self-styled ‘artisans’, that come closest to the pastoral imagery of what a wine producer ought to be. Sitting uneasily between the two is a third group, the co-operatives: groups of growers who pool their resources rather than try to go it alone or sell their grapes to one of the big guys. At times, co-ops have had a bad rap, making industrial wines without the slick branding of the big firms. But when they’re well run, like the northern Rhône’s Cave de Tain, with its range of spicy, authentic syrah reds, they offer a winning combination of good value and utopian communitarianism.

Produttori dei Barbaresco, Italy 2014 (£29.95, Jeroboams; Noble Green) In Europe, co-operatives can have an enormous influence on their local area, acting as a kind of de-facto local vinous government that can shape the way the local wines are made and perceived. That can be useful if they’re as competent as the Cave de Tain, above, whose members have around 70% of the local vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage, and who do much to promote the interests of both names worldwide. The same is true of one of Italy’s finest co-ops, the Produttori dei Barbaresco. The Produttori’s 60-odd members own many of the best vineyards in Barbaresco, neighbour of Barolo in Piedmont, and year in year out they make some of the zone’s very best nebbiolo reds, with the 2014 Barbaresco typically bright, perfumed and pure.

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20 best egg recipes: part 4

Thu, 31 Jan 2019 08:00:17 GMT

The Wolseley’s eggs Benedict, a Japanese savoury custard and Jeremy Lee’s walnut meringue’s with fruit curds – the last in our series of the best egg recipes

  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 1
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 2
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 3

Chawanmushi was one of my favourite savoury egg dishes when I was a child. Its warm, silky texture and combination of simple ingredients are the perfect way to enjoy the umami flavour of dashi. The simple components of the dish mean that you can play around with seasonal ingredients. This particular recipe is a plain chawanmushi, with a thickened dashi to pour on top at the end.

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Giant sunfish washes up on Australian beach: 'I thought it was a shipwreck'

Wed, 20 Mar 2019 04:10:56 GMT

Rare creature found at the mouth of Murray River in South Australia

A rare giant sunfish has washed ashore at the mouth of the Murray River in South Australia.

Linette Grzelak posted a picture on Facebook of the sunfish, which was spotted by a couple of fishers on the beach at the weekend.

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Spag bol and instant tacos: Anna Jones store-cupboard recipes | The Modern Cook

Fri, 22 Mar 2019 12:00:07 GMT

Use up odds and ends in a bolognese-style sauce, or turn that tin of beans at the back of the cupboard into a filling for a Tex-Mex taco

In the past few years of early motherhood, opportunities to run to the shops have been rare, so I’ve had to get creative with store-cupboard staples in jars and tins: spices and condiments, tinned tomatoes, pulses, coconut milk; and quick, flavour-packed seasonings like chipotle pasta or harissa. I’ve focused on pulses this week: a lentil bolognese that, if you’ll forgive me a few basic veg and a bay leaf, comes mostly from the store-cupboard – quick, simple and an arm’s reach away, and tacos from tins and jars, with some of interchangeable fresh things for crunch. I’ll be adding both recipes to my repertoire next time we head out in our campervan, too.

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Cocktail of the week: the Irish cold brew | | The Good Mixer

Fri, 15 Mar 2019 16:00:14 GMT

Like an Irish coffee, or even an espresso martini, but way more refreshing: a surefire hit for St Patrick’s Day

Move over espresso martini, the Irish are coming to town – well, it is St Patrick’s Day, after all. This drink is a bit like a Gaelic coffee, but cold, refreshing and devilishly moreish. There’s warmth from triple-casked whiskey, pick-me-up credentials from coffee and velvety balance from the caramel. Serve as an aperitif or digestif: this bestseller from our cocktail list works at any time of day – and especially today, of all days.

Serves 1
50ml Irish whiskey – I use Slane
15ml Kahlúa
10ml caramel syrup
– the kind you get in coffee bars (or maple syrup)
75ml espresso – cold-brew works best
3 coffee beans, to garnish

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Pompette, Oxford: ‘Worth saving up for’ – restaurant review

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 06:00:07 GMT

Oxford’s chattering classes should flock here to eat fine classic French dishes. And chat…

Pompette, 7 South Parade, Oxford OX2 7JL (01865 311166). Snacks, starters, charcuterie and cheeses £4.50-£14. Mains £16-£36. Desserts £6.50-£8.50. Wines from £19

Being a journalist is a licence to ask outrageous questions. A notebook in your hand is a badge. It says: I am not asking you about this sensitive matter because I am nosy, but because my job demands it. Now tell me again, you did what? With whom? And exactly how much Swarfega was involved? Not long after I took over this column 20 years ago, I concluded that a notebook and a restaurant table were the perfect combination. People relax when they are eating well. Then they talk.

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‘It’s like a family’: the restaurant staff who stay in the same job for decades

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:00:10 GMT

As a photographic project highlights long service in London’s restaurant trade, six stalwarts tell us why they’ve stayed put for all these years

“Very seldom are we who work in the catering industry appreciated for what we do,” says Gino Nardella, master sommelier at London hotel the Stafford. “We don’t get the awards or OBEs, and yet our contribution is great.”

Nardella is one of the subjects of photographer Peter Jackson’s latest personal project, Long Service: London. Jackson heard about a restaurant in Paris with an employee of more than 40 years standing, and thought there must be similar examples in the UK capital. Last summer, he started calling and emailing London restaurants: “If I walked past a place that looked quite old, I’d pop in.”

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20 best egg recipes: part 2

Tue, 29 Jan 2019 08:00:26 GMT

A filling curry from Asma Khan and Nigel Slater’s lemon mousse cake – part 2 of our favourite egg recipes

  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 1
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 3
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 4

You can vary the vegetables used in the filling for these tarts and replace the potatoes with roast pumpkin or even cooked okra (ladies’ fingers) or peas.

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Len & Alex Deighton’s Spanish Cookstrips: Crema Catalana

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:00:09 GMT

Len: People argue whether the Spanish or the French invented this dish.
Alex: They’re missing the point. Both versions are delicious. Make food, not war.

Len Deighton is the author of the Action Cookbook and French Cooking for Men (HarperCollins)

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Anna Jones' easy stem ginger pudding recipes | The Modern Cook

Fri, 15 Mar 2019 12:00:11 GMT

An irresistible apple and double ginger cake and a ginger fool with lemon and rhubarb

Stem ginger is one of those magical kitchen ingredients that doesn’t cost the earth and sits happily in the cupboard or fridge for months until needed. I love almost anything with stem ginger in it, but most of all I love ginger cake. I remember a German ginger and apple cake I used to make as a kid, which was just the right side of stodgy. This week I have made a new version, with apples as a foil for the deeply flavoured crumb. With the rest of the jar, I whipped up a fool and added some rhubarb for sharpness and colour, but it’s delicious without it, too.

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Liam Charles’ recipe for pineapple upside-down cake | The Sweet Spot

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 11:00:09 GMT

Cakes don’t get much simpler than this upside-down cake made with tinned pineapple

Everyone – and I mean everyone – can have a go at this super-simple cake. It’s such a fun thing to make, and everyone will love it. If you fancy, give it a cheeky little twist by adding a couple of tablespoons of dark rum to the caramel sauce when mixing in the vanilla. Cook off the alcohol for a couple of minutes, and you’ll be left with a wicked boozy taste.

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The New York Nigella: simple home cooking with Alison Roman

Sat, 16 Mar 2019 17:00:06 GMT

The Brooklyn-based chef and food writer’s book Dining In has unfussy recipes and brilliant tips to make you a better cook

“I want this to have a permanent place in your kitchen,” says Alison Roman of her debut cookbook Dining In, published in the UK this month. “I want the pages to be messy. I want you to learn something in each recipe that helps you become a better cook.”

The titles alone are appetising – I, for one, was powerless to resist her anchovy-butter chicken with chicken-fat croutons, or her chocolate-tahini tart with crunchy salt – and Roman’s breezy style carries you through the recipes with a minimum of fuss.

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Packets of hot sauce save two people's lives in one month

Mon, 25 Mar 2019 15:10:29 GMT

Man in Oregon trapped in his car for five days ate hot sauce, and moments after a Taco Bell customer got up from his seat to retrieve some hot sauce, a car burst through the restaurant’s wall

Don’t throw out those sauce packets collecting in your fridge. They just might save your life.

At least two people owe their lives to Taco Bell hot sauce after near-death experiences in recent weeks.

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10 great-value restaurants on Latin America’s 50 best list

Wed, 14 Nov 2018 06:30:09 GMT

From a Buenos Aires spot where greens rule to a ‘house of pig’ in São Paulo, our writer offers a personal selection of affordable restaurants on Latin America’s latest 50 best list

Elaborate tasting menus and fine dining dominate the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants list but it’s a different story with the Latin American edition of the awards. The top spot for 2018 did go to Lima’s Maido for the second year running (15-course menu £103), but further down the list there are plenty of restaurants offering great cooking at much more affordable prices. Here are 10 of the tastiest bargains around.

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Georgia on my plate: a culinary journey in the Caucasus

Sun, 09 Dec 2018 11:00:14 GMT

No lesson in the complex art of Georgian cuisine is complete without a toast or two, says our writer on a tour of the country’s mountains and cities
Suzanne Moore in ‘mind-blowingly gorgeous Georgia’

“This is a crazy Georgian situation,” says Ketino Sujashvili, with a hint of theatrical relish, as a dozen different crises flare up in her kitchen all at once.

I’ve just arrived at Ketino’s guesthouse in Kazbegi, northern Georgia, for an informal cooking class – the plan is to make khinkali, the soupy minced-meat dumplings prized in this spectacular region of the High Caucasus mountains. It begins smoothly enough, with the women in Ketino’s kitchen creating a space for me at their table, clearly amused by this lanky Irishman eager to learn the secrets of Georgian cuisine.

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Tin can ally: Jack Monroe’s store-cupboard recipes

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 07:00:17 GMT

Store-cupboard recipes that cost little, are ready in less than an hour, and might even save you a trip to the shops

Prep 20 min
Chill 30 min+
Cook 25 min
Makes 6-8

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Beyond the sea: Gill Meller’s spring seafood recipes

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 11:00:07 GMT

Pickled mussels, grilled oysters, clams with sausage: the recipes that remind River Cottage chef Gill Meller of home

March seems to mark heartwarming changes in my seaside town of Lyme Regis. The cold wet days are carried away by a milder, kinder type of breeze, and on it there’s a feeling of spring. The smaller fishing boats put back into the water, and the putt-putt-putt of their engines adds a new layer to the morning chorus. The smells of this wakening up of the season intensify my love of this place, and the sea and the food that belong to it; the smells of chips cooking and low tides, of vinegar and stone, of beach fires and fresh fish. These recipes connect me to this place and this time of year. There are plump pickled mussels in apple-cider vinegar to be piled on buttered brown bread. I’ve included an oyster dish that is as delicious as it is easy, and I think I’ve pieced together Mum’s fish pie – at least, it tastes pretty similar.

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One-pot puttanesca, chickpea soup and spicy popcorn: Yotam Ottolenghi’s store-cupboard recipes

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 09:30:05 GMT

Have a rummage in the store-cupboard and rustle up a north-African soup, an adaptable pasta or a grown-up take on popcorn

Store-cupboard cooking is a subject that will cause lots of eyes to roll and even more eyebrows to rise. My assumptions about people’s pantries have put me under so much fire in the past that I know a consensus is impossible. Still, the sense of accomplishment when you make a store-cupboard meal, with just a few fresh ingredients added for good measure, is immense. So please use today’s recipes less as instructions and more as a call for action: to raid the larder, spice shelf and the bottom of the fridge for a good spring clear-out.

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Len & Alex Deighton’s Italian Cookstrips: Cappellacci di zucca

Sun, 18 Nov 2018 11:00:03 GMT

Len: Pumpkin pasta is no fad. This recipe dates back to 1584.
Alex: It’s the reason the Ferrarese are nicknamed “magnazoca” - pumpkin eaters.

Len Deighton is the author of the Action Cookbook and French Cooking for Men (HarperCollins)

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20 best egg recipes: part 3

Wed, 30 Jan 2019 08:00:27 GMT

A classic cheese souffle, an indulgent custard tart and Giorgio Locatelli’s perfect spaghetti carbonara – great recipes for an every day ingredient

  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 1
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 2
  • OFM’s 20 best egg recipes: part 4

You don’t need to use fancy bread for this recipe – a basic white bloomer or a soft white bread works best because it can be squeezed to enclose the filling. These mozzarella sandwiches are dipped in egg and then shallow-fried, making them deliciously soft and gooey. They are perfect snacks for children – as well as being a delicious antipasti to serve to adults with drinks.

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Is the hunt for a white chocolate Creme Egg making Britain’s kids obese?

Tue, 19 Mar 2019 14:49:20 GMT

Cadbury’s Easter promotion has been criticised for encouraging children to eat hundreds of chocolates – and then there’s the row over their attempt to get kids active

Name: The Creme Egg hunt.

Age: The season starts in January and runs until Easter.

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The Feathered Nest, Oxfordshire: 'Faultless, but can I leave now?’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 22 Mar 2019 10:00:39 GMT

Perfect produce, great flavours … so why the glum face?

En route to The Feathered Nest in Nether Westcote, Oxfordshire, I remembered that the cool thing to say about the Cotswolds is that they are awful. A bucolic establishment bolthole where David Cameron and Jeremy Clarkson hang out eating Blur-flavoured cheese strings at one of Alex James’ regular soirées de fromages. Who’d want to live there?

OK, I’ll start: me. The Cotswolds are heavenly. Nether Westcote, for example, is close to the picturesque, medieval town of Burford, which has a high street festooned with antiques shops and charming tea rooms selling fresh, plump lardy cakes. Burford looks like the set of one of those Murder, She Wrote specials when Jessica Fletcher visits England without ever actually leaving the Universal Studios backlot, by simply flinging about ducks, scones and Aston Martins.

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Vivi, W1: ‘Gargantuan, gorgeous, sterile’ - restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:00:11 GMT

Well-presented, old-fashioned, but overpriced pub grub for the casually opulent

Restaurant land is in a tangential state. Dozens of new openings have been cancelled, heavily delayed, hazily scheduled or, by contrast, brassily rolled out in the most opulent manner ever.

If post-Brexit food-shortage rumours become true, at least I, as “an expert”, know of some incredible new multimillion-pound pleasure palaces, such as, say, Vivi, where I can perch under a Vibeke Fonnesberg Schmidt plexiglass chandelier at a metallic bronze, curvilinear bar and survey the hungry rioters outside. “Let them eat caviar vol-au-vents,” I will decree as the masses enter the building, George Romero zombie-style, making a complete mess of the sublime, art-deco marble flooring and the salmon-pink, leather horseshoe booths, before they remove my entrails.

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Meera Sodha’s recipe for store-cupboard lentil salad | The New Vegan

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 10:00:09 GMT

Whack a few handfuls of leftover veg in the oven, add lentils and a dash of lemon: that’s dinner sorted

I hated maths as a kid, and I still do. But there are occasional moments when it comes in handy in the kitchen, especially in solving that never-ending problem of what to make for lunch or dinner. My solution is meal maths, and the equation goes as follows: vegetables + store-cupboard pulses + dressing = triumph. Last week, that involved combining pre-cooked lentils with slow-roasted vegetables and a perky, hot lemon dressing. It’s an endlessly adaptable recipe that’s worth stocking the cupboard for (and sharing with you).

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Revealed: no need to add cancer-risk nitrites to ham

Sat, 23 Mar 2019 15:00:11 GMT

Confidential meat industry report shows additives do not prevent food poisoning

A bombshell internal report written for the British meat industry reveals nitrites do not protect against botulism – the chief reason ham and bacon manufacturers say they use the chemicals.

The study, conducted for the British Meat Processors Association (BMPA) by the scientific consultancy Campden, and marked “confidential”, examines the growth of the toxin Clostridium botulinum in the processing of bacon and ham.

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Best vegan restaurants in the UK: readers’ travel tips

Thu, 08 Nov 2018 06:30:05 GMT

With influences ranging from Van Gogh to Asia, these vegan venues serve up arty as well as delicious food – on beaches, buses … and in an underpass

Bundobust is fast becoming a Leeds institution for food lovers of all persuasions. Everything is veggie, and a large proportion of the menu is vegan, with an easy vegan sharing menu for two a great way in. From the okra fries dusted in black salt and mango powder (genius) to the chole dal and masala dosa, its south Indian street food, craft beer and Asian-inspired cocktails are a winning combo. With dishes from £4-6.50 it’s also easy on the wallet, so you can try a bit of everything.
Laura King

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20 best recipes for one person: part 1

Mon, 25 Mar 2019 08:00:08 GMT

Simon Hopkinson’s warming chicken and garlic broth and a Sunday-night special of coddled eggs – delicious meals that are perfect for one person

  • 20 best recipes for one person: part 2

A bowl of cashew nut rice is my favourite dinner for one. What I particularly like about this recipe is the flexibility – you can substitute the cashews for whole or flaked almonds, replace the spices with a teaspoon of Sichuan peppercorns (Sichuan peppercorns plus lemon verbena leaves is my left-field favourite), and vegans can make it with olive oil. I think a bowl of rice constitutes dinner in itself, but you can top it with a fried egg and some greens, quickly wilted with garlic and chilli. If you’re very hungry, use 100g rice and 200ml water in the recipe below.

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Rachel Roddy's recipe for pasta with tomatoes and anchovy sauce | A Kitchen in Rome

Mon, 25 Mar 2019 12:00:11 GMT

Why tinned tomatoes are the ultimate safety-net ingredient

If I had to choose, my top 10 foods in tins (in reverse order) would be: custard, Spanish olives stuffed with almonds, sweetcorn, peas, pear halves, borlotti beans, sardines, anchovies, chickpeas, tuna and, coming in at number one, tomatoes. As rankings go, this was a lot harder to choose than I had imagined. I’m quite relieved this is only hypothetical, so I don’t have to worry about snubbing mackerel, baked beans, peaches, cannellini, pineapple, corned beef, evaporated milk and tomato soup. I also don’t have to dwell on the tuna/chickpea positioning (on reflection, maybe they should be joint third).

What wasn’t difficult, though, was choosing which tin should clinch the number one spot: the unchallenged queen of the cupboard, tinned tomatoes. As my partner Vincenzo, the grandson of a Sicilian tomato farmer, once noted: “They smile at you from the shelf as if to say, ‘I have your back.’”

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Sausage stuffed potatoes | Nigel Slater

Tue, 26 Mar 2019 12:00:26 GMT

The key to this simple and satisfying meal is choosing a well-seasoned sausage

Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.

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Who are Britain's best wine retailers?

Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:30:08 GMT

Bad news from Oddbins is offset by the rise of specialist indies and supermarkets upping their game

Oddbins is in trouble again, having called in the administrators after a terrible Christmas trading period. It’s sad news for those of us who retain a deep affection for the eclectic chain where they learned to love wine. All the more so since, in recent years under the supervision of master of wine Ana Sapungiu, the stores were once again full of a diverse range of interesting, well-priced wines.

The news isn’t all that surprising. The company has always seemed a bit rickety and never, under a succession of different owners, quite able to buck the long-term trend that has seen off its high street rivals, from Unwins to Victoria Wine, Threshers and Bottoms Up.

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Michael Mosley on drinking in moderation

Wed, 20 Feb 2019 11:00:42 GMT

It’s not all bad news, despite what the papers say – a glass or two of what you fancy can be beneficial to body and soul

There have been quite a few studies recently that demonstrate the benefits of wine consumption, particularly red. Despite the many criticisms saying alcohol is bad for you, a consistent body of evidence shows that a modest amount of wine consumption is associated with reduced risk of heart disease.

For one randomised control trial carried out in Israel recently, a group of non-alcohol drinkers with raised blood sugar levels were asked to drink water, or a glass of red wine, or a glass of white wine, every evening for two years. At the end of that period, the people who showed the most benefit were the red drinkers, followed by the white wine drinkers, followed by the water drinkers, in terms of the impact on their cardiovascular system, as well as on their sleep. The researchers also did genetic tests and found that those who were slow alcohol metabolisers – which meant the alcohol hung around in their system for longer – were the ones who got the most benefit.

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Gravity-defying dessert, $195 mac’n’cheese and Beyoncé’s guacamole: the tastiest food TV

Wed, 29 Aug 2018 14:17:21 GMT

There’s plenty to satisfy your food-based telly cravings in the week between Great British Bake Off episodes. Here’s our pick ...

While everyone was busy being distracted by all the prestige drama, streaming services have quietly built up a giant stockpile of food shows. With CNN’s Anthony Bourdain documentary not out for at least another year, and the next episode of the Great British Bake Off almost a whole week away, here’s a list of all the food shows you should be watching instead.

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20 best recipes for one person: part 2

Tue, 26 Mar 2019 08:00:18 GMT

A roast chicken, with six more dishes for the leftovers, and the definitive steak frites - recipes to make a meal for one into a feast

  • 20 best recipes for one person: part 1

There’s no point in cooking a steak on your own unless it is of a proper size. Making sure the interior of the steak is at room temperature is as important as ensuring the meat is well rested after cooking.

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